Guten Tag

 

We are in Heidelberg, Germany and have been for the last two days.  I can’t begin to describe how lovely and idyllic our time here has been!  We decided to do this and take advantage of our travelling situation for some fun family time and to enhance the girls’ education.  (Michal’s class studied castles this year) so we visited the Heidelberg castle and then took a day trip to Neckarsteinach, which is a little town that has four castles.  I was impressed with how much the girls remembered about castles and how interested they were.  We we also enjoyed a riverboat cruise to get back from Neckarsteinach, and re-introduced the girls to train travel!  The pictures show us in one of the castle towers, and then the view looking from the top of one castle to another.  

We are staying in a lovely little hotel in a quiet (very quiet, which is something you don’t get in Africa) neighborhood outside of town.  There is a wonderful bakery next door that suits our needs for coffee and pastries beautifully.  We don’t speak any German, and not many people here speak French or Kabiye, so we have to rely on the ones who know English and guess at the rest.  Facing a language barrier is always humbling, you can feel so helpless!!!

I love how clean it is here.  The hotel is spotless, the air is wonderfully fresh, and these people seem to recycle habitually.  We’ve had perfectly cool weather- what a welcome relief, and some rain but always at just the right time to not disturb our plans!  Anyway, those of you who know me know that I love a great rainstorm (right Claire?), and there was a beautiful display of heavy rain, thunder, lightening, and even small hail yesterday.  

We are exhausted, happy, and blessed to be able to see so much of God’s creation, both in landscape, and in different people.  We are also ready to see all of you that we love and miss so much!

Further reflections on poverty and life choices…

Witnessing these things from the insulated background of middle-class America (which I am not knocking, I feel extremely blessed and ever grateful for the hardships I have been spared!) leads one to pontificate the multi-faceted and complex problem of poverty.  In Ruby Payne’s research she postulates that there are seven resource areas, and that the absence or presence of these resources affect whether a person is in and can get out of poverty.  I think there is a lot of credence to the fact that poverty is a state that involves so much more than the fact that someone is not investing  in their 401k.  Living in two worlds that are vastly different from one another brings a lot of questions to my mind (Becky wrote a great post on this).  What causes some people to be willing to sacrifice their morality, physical and emotional health, and sometimes their relationships to secure a better place in life while some people hold fast and withstand their hardships to patiently wait for something better?  What gives people the strength to endure while others are so fragile?  How much of the ability to stand strong is choice and how much of it is just the resources that are already available to us?  As I ask these questions I am already thinking about what answers I would hear.  I know that some people will say that is is the presence of Christ in someone’s life and their willingness to rely upon him that determines how well someone can come through difficulties having made wise choices and grown from it.  I don’t dispute that, but I also know that it takes form in many different ways and that we can’t oversimplify that process.  Each experience is almost as unique as the person that is experiencing it.  I have heard a lot people talk about how it is all based on choice and that every person knows what’s good and bad and could choose to have a better life if they are just self disciplined and hard working enough.  Again, I don’t dispute that the theory has some applications, I just feel that it is universalized too often, and is especially abused in a culture that is accustomed to being able to control circumstances and produce a desired outcome (hmmm, what culture could I be referring to?)    

 

Ok, so I’ve rambled on in a stream of consciousness type fashion for two days.  I guess all of this just needs time to settle in my head and heart, and it may take awhile.  That’s ok because despite the unsettling feeling I get sometimes, I have a deep sense of joy in being here and being able to be part of these people’s lives.  I know I say this all of the time, but I truly feel very humbled by so many people around me who continually face hardship in so many areas on so many levels, and maintain a great character and faith in God.  Many of them can’t even count on relief from their hardships in this lifetime, but they persist with inspirational perseverance.

Poverty and Life Choices

Good hamburgers, used bookstores, pizza delivery, a mall, milkshakes, many good restaurants, speaking English, and satellite television are all things that make one feel as though they are almost stepping outside of Africa for awhile when you come to Accra (at least when you are coming from Kara, Togo.)  We can go to any number of places and be with a very international community, in very comfortable, western type settings.  In fact, the lady at Enda (a coffee shop here) recently told me that they were trying to be as much like Starbucks as they can.  The setting does provide some relief from the inundation of sobering stories and sights with which we come in contact on a daily basis.

Today we took our girls out for a big lunch before we have to get on our flight this evening, and as we sat in a very westernized restaurant, an older European man came in with a very young and provocatively dressed African woman.  Unfortunately, this sight is pretty common around here, and it is something that always bothers me a great deal.  I have a hard time ignoring it and shaking it out of my mind.  Now I don’t mean to say that every time I see an older European or American man with a very young African woman that something is amiss, but I know that it would be naive to not realize that often times I am witnessing prostitution, or at the least a “sugar daddy” sort of deal.

There is something about these scenarios that bother me on a whole different level from other hardships we see.  The difficulties we see a lot in our work in Togo are a little bit more understandable to me, probably because people are fairly honest about them.  We have friends who have talked to us about not being able to conceive children, not having enough money to send children to school, being HIV+, being abandoned by their spouse, having to take in grandchildren due to irresponsibility or illness/death of their child, teenage pregnancy, rape, hunger, being persecuted for refusing to worship idols, and the list goes on.  In our ministry we have many opportunities to pray with, pray for, cry with, listen to, and sometimes help the people we know and love as they go through these things.  In my opinion, there is a new element of sorrow when one seems to be enjoying or thinks that the thing that has ensnared them will bring them satisfaction.  Most of these women are “well dressed” (meaning their clothes were probably expensive,) they are eating at nice restaurants, and one of the ladies I saw today had an iPod.  These scenes bring to mind a lady I met at one of the AED satellite clinics.  She moved to Cotonou, Benin so that she could find a good job.  She didn’t find a job but did find a man who would “take care” of her.  He got her an apartment and supported her until she became sick, then he cut her off. She was too sick to work and had to find a way back to her parent’s village.  Her parents allow her to live with them, but they haven’t really accepted her back.  Now she lives as an outcast in her own community and is fighting to reclaim her body from the disease that is devouring her.  How many of these lovely young women I see with these men will end up with a similar story?

Background on AIDS Clinic

 

Several people have been asking about AED, the AIDS clinic where I have been volunteering, so I decided to give an overview on my blog.  AED stands for Association Espoir pour Demain (French for Association Hope for Tomorrow.)  Several years ago a group of people who were HIV+  began meeting together and formed a support group among themselves.  There are so many myths and misunderstandings about HIV/AIDS, and people often face discrimination, misunderstanding, rejection by their family and society.  Kevin Fiori was a Peace Corps worker at that time and was very impressed with what he saw in this group.  After his time in Kara working with them, Kevin returned to the States with the idea to start an NGO that would help empower AED to reach more people and offer more services.  That was the birth of Hope Through Health.  

 

AED offers counseling and assists people in getting tested, then helps them get started on a treatment regiment.  They have counseling, medical consultations, some medical supplies, and a limited amount of ARVs (Anti-Retrovirals, the drugs that inhibit the progression of HIV/AIDS.)  They have a specific program geared towards AIDS orphans and other vulnerable children which provides ARVs, hospitalization, some school supplies, home visits, and a day camp held one Saturday a month called Club Espoir.  There is a program for pregnant women who are infected which offers ARVs, medical consultations, hospitalization, education, a support group, and six months of formula if the mother chooses to bottle feed.  They have also begun some small programs to help women find sustainable ways to help women make a living and several satellite clinics located in smaller cities and villages in the area surrounding Kara.  

While the work there is making a great impact on many lives, the demand is overwhelming and there are not enough resources to meet all of the needs.  Most of the funding comes from the US, through local chapters and through their Stand With Us campaign.  The Stand With Us campaign is the easiest way to get involved as it asks only for a $20 a month commitment and will provide all of the services for a person living with HIV for a month.  I am amazed considering that is just one small copay for a person living in the US with insurance.  You can also pray as they try to procure enough ARVs to meet the demand, raise their funds, and as they try to facilitate the gradual shift of funding to local resources.  

 

AIDS and Cognitive Dissonance

May 18, 2008

 

One of the difficulties of going back to the US after time in Africa is trying to communicate about life and work here.  I am already feeling the tension of that very issue as concerns my experiences with the AIDS clinic.  America is so far removed from this place where even the best medical care would not satisfy our standards.  The stories of hardship and suffering that are status quo here are so far off our radar that they begin to sound like some over dramatized soap opera, not real life.  

 

I guess it is impossible to really communicate what we’ve seen, and that’s why it makes such a huge impact when people come to visit.  It is oftentimes life changing (it led Mark and I, and all of our teammates to raise our families here!)  However, I can’t say all of that without also saying that the resiliency and joy of life that I’ve seen here is beautiful and inspiring.  I count it as a great privilege to be here, work with the Togolaise, get to know them, and be a part of their lives.  

Do you have any thoughts on these issues?  I’d appreciate hearing about them as it might help provide clarity and perspective.

The Present Tide

May 17, 2008

 

I have been without reliable internet access for a couple of weeks now, so that explains my lack of blogging and responding to emails, etc.  We’re ending our transitional time in Togo and beginning our transitional time in the States so that we can transition back to living here in November.  Do you notice a recurring theme here?  

 

Last week we came down to Ghana and went to Coconut Grove for an excellent retreat with other West African missionaries.  While there, it occurred to me the real value of a true vacation.  The retreat was structured so that the mornings were spent in sessions and the afternoons were left open to relax and play, then we had some time set aside for worship each evening.  We took advantage of the afternoons by playing with our girls on the beach, then we’d move to a tide pool, then we’d go to the pool, and sometimes take a break to nap or read.  What really impacted me during our afternoons of free time was the very rare experience of actually living in the present moment.  We had nowhere we had to go, nothing we had planned to do, just doing whatever we pleased whenever we pleased.  I didn’t have to worry about our next meal, we just had to go to the dining area at the designated time and it would be waiting.  

 

Most of our lives are spent planning for the future, even in small subtle ways.  If I set aside time to play with my girls, I’m always cognizant of how much time I have to do that because there is something else I will have to get done at sometime.  If I allow myself time to just sit and read, or study my Bible, pray, read and write email, almost anything, I’m always doing those things with a part of my mind watching the clock and preparing myself to take on my next responsibility when the time comes.  It’s just part of life.  I don’t really think there’s a way to avoid it, but I’m more convinced than ever that a good vacation/retreat (not the kind that is packed with a full agenda) is almost imperative to functioning well.  

Shopping Shock

May 10, 2008

 

Today we travelled from Kara, Togo to Accra, Ghana as we are on our way to WAMR (West Africa Missionary Retreat.)  Something happens when you cross the border from Togo to Ghana that is really quite obvious just from observing the police officers and border officials.  How can one country be so sloppy and inefficient and a few yards away, the next country be so well groomed?  

 

In Accra, there stands a phenomenon that is unequalled anywhere in Togo, the Accra Mall.  It contains Game (a walmart-like store,) Shopright (a clean and spacious grocery store,) stores that carry high end designer products such as Coach, a food court, and Mr. Price (kind of like Old Navy.)  Entering the Accra Mall, especially when one has come straight from the Togo border, takes a bit of mental gymnastics in order to process what you are seeing.  

 

As it happened, we went into Mr. Price with our children just to see what was there.  I we walked around, Maddie started asking for things.  Maddie has never been the kind of kid who walks around begging for items from stores while we are shopping, we’ve always kind of had the rule that if there is something you want you can bring it to our attention but it may be awhile if we decide to purchase it.  She broke down into tears, and we had to stand outside of the store while our friends finished their shopping.  Of course, she calmed down and we talked through things, yet it’s really a strange thing to see your child behave in a way that is so uncharacteristic of them.

 

I’m thankful for that small experience because it gave me a heads up on some things that I think my girls may feel as we go back to the States.  Initially, I was worried about how they would handle coming here, leaving almost all of their toys behind, having a few clothes, new food and much fewer food choices, and MUCH less entertainment.  They have done so well that I have been surprised and giving thanks to God for it.  There has been almost no complaining and I have found myself taking hints from them to “be happy with what I’ve been given.”  However, if the whole Mr. Price meltdown is any indication, dealing with the disparity between living with everything at your disposal with minimal inconvenience and living with the mindset of making do and being content is going to be something we all have to process.  Keep us in your prayers as we guide our kids through the ups and downs of switching worlds several more times this year.

 

If you don’t work, you don’t eat…

Much of life how life treats us can be tweaked by the perspective we take on it (admittedly, that is a very middle class America statement.)  People are often amazed at what we and our teammates are doing because they perceive life in Africa as very difficult, but much of that perception depends on the attitude one takes.  Life here is definitely not as plush as life in America- not even close, and we do live a little closer to the elements than in America.  There is the daily stress of living in and working in a foreign language and culture, and all of the things get to us at times, but there are a lot of joys and rewards as well, and part of thriving here is learning to live in and relish thing facets of life as much as possible.  

 

However, one of the hardest things I’ve had to get used to is feeding a family here.  Don’t get me wrong, we love all of the fresh veggies and fruit you can get so easily at the market, and I think we have much healthier eating habits, but that fact is that I have to be prepared to serve three meals a day, plus snacks for school- everyday.  There are no shortcuts unless I plan ahead of time to prepare something to freeze.  There are practically no quick fix meals, and not many restaurants from which to choose.  

 

I tried to prepare for this and hired a househelper who knows how to cook.  It still did not equal the convenience that is offered in the US.  I am going to make a deliberate attempt to remember that the providing food aspect of being here is hard when I come back.  Please feel free to remind me if I forget!

 

Having said that, there are some foods I am looking forward to having when I get back to the States.  Oreos, Starbucks coffee, La Hacienda, broccoli, strawberries, ice cream, ice cream, and ice cream, too.  All of those things are pretty easy to get and or prepare. 

Entry from a while ago when I couldn’t post…

We got to meet a proud mother of twins during a hospital visit!The good news is that we’ve had three days of uninterrupted electricity, the bad news is that our internet is a little shaky.  You can’t have your cake and eat it, too, particularly not in Togo!  So I’m left to spill my thoughts on Pages and copy it later when I can get online.  

 

Wrapping up our time here is bittersweet, there are so many thoughts and emotions flying around my head it is hard to lay hold of one for any length of time.  

 

My time at the AIDS clinic has been very revealing, thought-provoking, inspiring, and emotional.  I am anxious to get back here and continue what’s been started.  I think that being exposed to something like that can be a real burden, but it helps if you know there is something you can do to help and you actually do it.  Seeing how well people live when they have access to and take their ARVs, plus take advantage of other services offered has been inspirational.  I am humbled by the people I’ve met, both workers at the clinic, and members.  

 

I am excited to see all of our friends and family back home.  My girls will be spoiled with tv, sweet cereal, jumping on the trampoline, swimming, air conditioning, snacks, and maybe some toys, too.  I look forward to playing games and laughing a lot with both sides of our family, drinking coffee in the morning on my parents deck with Michal coming out before she even fully wakes up to jump on the trampoline, seeing LuLu and the other family dogs, going to Grable, IN, worshipping in English, and having a date with my husband.  

 

Sobering

Last Tuesday and Wednesday morning I accompanied two women from AED (the local AIDS clinic) as they went to homes of different members to check on their health and well-being.  Each morning we walked for three to four and a half hours and visited several people who had been affected by AIDS in many ways.  One of the people we visited was a lady who is taking care of her four month old grand baby.  The baby’s mother died within days of the birth and left her sick child with no acknowledgement that she was HIV positive.  The baby’s grandmother took the sick child to get tested and found that he is, indeed, HIV+.  Fortunately, this baby boy has an attentive grandmother and a caring father who are making sure that he receives all the treatment that is available to keep him strong and healthy.  

On Friday I went  with a Kabiye man named Akala to visit patients who were hospitalized.  The first patient we visited was a woman who was literally writhing in pain and semi-consciousness, they had her in restraints to keep her on the bed.  She had come the night before but had not yet received any treatment because her sister (who brought her in) had forgotten her carnet (proof that AED would cover her medical expenses.)  There was no sign on the wall that informed people of their right to receive treatment regardless of insurance coverage,  this was not America.  So Akala spoke with people at the hospital and another man who works part time there and part time at the clinic, and together they advocated for this woman to receive treatment right away while her mother went to search for the carnet.  By the time we left, they were beginning to treat her, and I heard word today that they were able to treat her and she is talking and eating now.  

Hospital experiences are different here.  You bring your own sheets and towels, a family member stays with you and brings you food, you often bring your own medical equipment, and you stay in rooms with ten or more other patients.  There is no privacy, no air conditioning, and often, very little dignity.  Despite all of this, people who go to hospitals are considered “lucky”, which makes sense considering the alternative. 

As I delve into the work at AED, my mind is trying to take it all in and make sense of it.  One thing is proved time and time again, people who are tested, start and are faithful to the ARV regiment, eat well, and maintain healthy eating, drinking, and relationship practices lead happy and productive lives.  Those who do not follow those treatment protocols or who live in denial end up sick, emaciated, and debilitated. Still, in the midst of all of this, I see God working to carry His people, and the fight against AIDS is effective and it is saving lives.  The efforts made by my friends at AED are having a profound and vast impact on the people in Kara and the surrounding areas.  God is restoring their hope and health.  Please pray for these people and for the people at AED as well as those at their partner NGO, Hope Through Health.  Lastly, pray for me that God will be with me as I seek to lift up a humble offering in His name, to those who have no street address nor PO Box, no email, no paycheck, no education, sometimes no father or mother, no one to listen when they call out, no means, and who feel like they are forgotten.  

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